4.0l V6 OHV

[Fordboy77']

4.0L Ford V6
My whole life i have been building big V8's. This is going to be my first V6 build, actually its the first time i have rebuilt anything other than a V8. Should i stick along the same lines as i would for a V8? or are there any special considerations i need to take in to account as it being a V6? This is the motor i am going to be putting in to the GF's 88 Bronco 2. When it is done, it will sit on 33's, with the 3.73 gears that came with the 8.8 and dana 35 out of the explorer parts car. Eventually might jump to a lower gear set, but don't have the money for something like that right now. Would it be a waste of money to bore the block over? What are good mods for V6's?
My Thoughts Were;
Stock Bore and Stroke
RV Cam
Ported and Polished Heads
Ported Intakes
Headers
Upgraded Ignition
And some form of a better than stock intake.
Any suggestions are welcome.

[shawns 64 F100]

nothing different as far as tear down and reassembly of any engine, of course each engine has its particular characteristics when the machinist gets a hold of it.
how many V-8 engines have you rebuilt?
just curious

[Fordboy77']

nothing different as far as tear down and reassembly of any engine, of course each engine has its particular characteristics when the machinist gets a hold of it.
how many V-8 engines have you rebuilt?
just curious

I've rebuilt (With the help of my dad and grandfathers)
3. 302's
1. 318
1. 351W
1. 360
1. 390
1. 440
2. 460
My dad was way into the early broncos, and i had a mustang for the 302s.
The 318 and the 440 were both engines for my 72 Plymouth Fury 2
The 390 has been rebuilt but not installed for the 1970 F100
The 460's were for my dads 78 and 79 F250's he had.
The 360 and the 351W where for friends of the family's.
I have ever only rebuilt 1 motor on my own and it was the 302 for my mustang. I have a grasp of the steps and such, but still need help from time to time.

[shawns 64 F100]

The overhaul is going to be the same, rings, pistons (if needed) rods and bearings. Making sure the Bearings are installed properly, the rings are installed properly and nothing gets damaged as well as cleanliness. I always made sure the connecting rods AND pistons went back into the same hole (unless the engine was honed oversize) then the pitons need to be replaced and installed in the correct position and still replace Rods and main caps and everything that came off in the same area it was on.

Just as important is not using a shitload of RTV silicon to seal it, that's only needed in the corners of the gaskets and NEVER use sealant on the head gaskets. a small bit of oil on the head bolts but not a excessive amount, you do not want them to hydro-lock in the bolt hole, or even worse break the block because there was too much lube on the threads. I believe the 4.0 has torque to yeild head bolts, so you need to replace them if I am correct. You can't reuse torque to yield head bolts. Need plenty of lubriplate (assembly lube) I may be forgetting some things here, there is so much to rebuilding an engine. After you do alot of them it becomes second nature of doing it right by trial and errors and lessons learned.

[Hypoid]

IIRC, the donor is OBD-I. Don't these have a problem with a lot of overlap on the cam?

I never built one of these, just something I've read on another board.

[Digger]

Shawn made some good points, you will need new head bolts, as they should be torque to yield. I rebuilt a 2.9 which is the sister engine to the 4.0. One thing you should look at is the valve guides. They tend to wear off-axis and it will likely need a good valve job. Read this article before starting:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/40rebuild.htm