84broncoII
08-11-2009, 10:19 AM
I havent been really active on here lately but it's not like I haven't been doing anything ....Finantially things have been in the toilet litterally .I've been staying in sanding and priming /doing some body work on the Campertruck and had to sell My KLR 600 kawasaki to make ends meet .work has been a crapshoot at best and dont ever know if there's going to be more .So I decided to heck with it all and started looking for another killer machine I could let My frustrations out on .Introducing :a 1995 KX 500 E1 it has been modified from its original all out supermoto status to more of a trail beast .it has all aftermarket plastics from ascerbis, a headlight and tailight and a spark arrester and FMF fatty pipe with a kevlar seat for more comfort where I need it most. It needs a rear tire but for 350 bones I really cant complain I got 650 for the KLR and so Im still 300 ahead on the moto deal and have a newer lighter bike, more suited to My taste and it has about 10 more horsepower to boot and a better suspension all around a better faster meaner leaner newer machine .I'm stoked to say the least it hasn't been trail registered since 99 so I have to change the fluids and the back tire and register it for ohv use .I havent taken any pictures of it yet I assure You they'll be forthcoming soon .
Till then I did take some pics of the bodywork on the campertruck and if You'all dont mind to save Me from another post I'll just insert some here .
A brief explanation : The original paint (white color) had been painted over with another layer of white and there is adheasion problems between the two coats also rust spots that formed under the second coat .I felt it nesecarry to remove all the paint from the hood area and sandblast all the rustspots to a white metal.Then feather edge these ares and I also wanted to remove the truck mirrors that the previouse owner had installed and mount some mirrors on the camper and not have to redrill holes in the body of the truck .I am welding up the holes in the doors and applying fiberglass filler I would use kitty hair but I know from expierence that fiberglass gel is more chemical resistant and for some ares is easer to apply I can use a brush to coat ares behind and around bodie panels gelcoat is very rust resistant and completly waterproof also tolerates gasoline and brakefluid .its an excelent base for all ferrous metal and done properly stronger than steel pound for pound .once set it shrinks very little so it makes a good base for other body fillers used primarily to feather fill or spot fill which is easer to sand .anywhay We all have our own methouds and here are some pics
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=39&pictureid=326
This is how it all starts remove the cancer
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=39&pictureid=325
Then feather the edges
seal and fill the metal
Prime the bare spots
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=39&pictureid=321
next I'll wetsand and block sand look for low spots and re-prime but still have body work to do so that'll be next time this stuff takes way longer than anyone likes I dont like to weld too much in areas like these cause its hart to protect the metle so it doesnt rust quickly using this methoud the last time I fixed a panel this way it lasted 17 yrs and still counting My 62 is still going strong too bad its starting to rust in other areas though :eek:
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=39&pictureid=322
I have three compressors hooked up together cause I dont have a single compressor big enough to run the air tools Im using I have mini grinders and and two air files a spot sand blaster and a DA sander not to meantion three paint guns two for primers and spot t-ups and one Im saving for the finish coats
Till then I did take some pics of the bodywork on the campertruck and if You'all dont mind to save Me from another post I'll just insert some here .
A brief explanation : The original paint (white color) had been painted over with another layer of white and there is adheasion problems between the two coats also rust spots that formed under the second coat .I felt it nesecarry to remove all the paint from the hood area and sandblast all the rustspots to a white metal.Then feather edge these ares and I also wanted to remove the truck mirrors that the previouse owner had installed and mount some mirrors on the camper and not have to redrill holes in the body of the truck .I am welding up the holes in the doors and applying fiberglass filler I would use kitty hair but I know from expierence that fiberglass gel is more chemical resistant and for some ares is easer to apply I can use a brush to coat ares behind and around bodie panels gelcoat is very rust resistant and completly waterproof also tolerates gasoline and brakefluid .its an excelent base for all ferrous metal and done properly stronger than steel pound for pound .once set it shrinks very little so it makes a good base for other body fillers used primarily to feather fill or spot fill which is easer to sand .anywhay We all have our own methouds and here are some pics
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=39&pictureid=326
This is how it all starts remove the cancer
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=39&pictureid=325
Then feather the edges
seal and fill the metal
Prime the bare spots
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=39&pictureid=321
next I'll wetsand and block sand look for low spots and re-prime but still have body work to do so that'll be next time this stuff takes way longer than anyone likes I dont like to weld too much in areas like these cause its hart to protect the metle so it doesnt rust quickly using this methoud the last time I fixed a panel this way it lasted 17 yrs and still counting My 62 is still going strong too bad its starting to rust in other areas though :eek:
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=39&pictureid=322
I have three compressors hooked up together cause I dont have a single compressor big enough to run the air tools Im using I have mini grinders and and two air files a spot sand blaster and a DA sander not to meantion three paint guns two for primers and spot t-ups and one Im saving for the finish coats