How much..

[ford_munky_man]

lift would I need in back and front to make the Bronco look level? 4" front and 2" back or whats the deal on the kits that come with higher front than back? Whats the rule of thumb here?

[foxfire]

2" is the diffrence. If you where going to just leval it out you would add 2"" to the front. any lift you get will be 2" less in the rear.

[ford_munky_man]

ok so if i order stuff seperatley to achieve a level look do a 4" front and 2" back?

[foxfire]

yes

[ford_munky_man]

bad ass lol sorry if this sounded like a dumb post just thought i'd ask before i ended up messin something up

[ford_munky_man]

and if i do 4 in front am i going to need the camber adjusting nut things? Or just get drop brackets for the ttb arms?

[foxfire]

You will need to have it aliened at a shop. Are you talking about the tie rod ends? the stock ones will work and you are not asking a dumb question. Your smarter then some by asking b-4 you buy stuff abd have it wrong.

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, it can be aligned at my autoshop, but I was thinking of some adjustable alignment bushings so the camber or something is correct. or if the kit comes with drop down brackets if that takes care of that.

[foxfire]

not sure how that works. I'm sure some one will chim in

[Starkman]

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NCP&PartNumber=2642000&Description=Camber+%2f+Caster+Bushing+-+Front+Suspension

Here is one, they go by degree. I just bought 2 degree for my Ranger.

[ford_munky_man]

Ok, now how do you know how much you need? Do you figure that out with alignment?

[Starkman]

Ok, now how do you know how much you need? Do you figure that out with alignment?

That's the trick, you have to either guess or use a camber gauge to measure. I give it the old eye and I usally get it good. After you install the bushing you can rotate it to get the camber right. TTB's are a "close" kind of setup.

[ford_munky_man]

Huh what is usually associated with a 4" frontal lift? Are is everyone the same?

[250stroker]

A 4" kit will come with drop down brackets for the swing arms. You shouldn't need drop down brackets for the radius arms until 6" or more. Why don't you just do a SAS and get rid of that TTB? It would work so much better.

[bronc_17113]

sas is much better for street driving sas soes not automatically make a truck better ive seen some ghetto fab u lous sas

[ford_munky_man]

I meant degree bushing wise, or because it comes with drop down brackets for the swing arms I don't need it? Here is the kit I am planning on:

http://broncograveyard.com/cart.php

And I will probably end up doing a sas here later down the road, just not ready for it now.

[bronc_17113]

if your going to do an sas i wouldnt waste the money on lifting it beforehand

[Starkman]

I guess I need to ask what do you want for your Bronc now.

Tires size?
Lift height?

SAS is the way most rock crawling guys go but the TTB can be made to work very well. My argument is that unless you swap in a Dana 60 you will have to beef up the straight axle to handle 35" tires and bigger. Before everyone starts in on "I have a D44 and run 40" tires I would point out that Larry runs 37" on a TTB dana 35 and he has only a few problems. The point is the Dana 44 TTB is just as strong as a straight D44. The steering is the real issue. But remember you will be heavily modifing the steering going SAS (all new linkage, track bar location must match link etc..).

BTW, I have a really good way to give your Bronc and 4 to 5 inches of lift to get 16" of travel.

Here's a picture:
http://www.rmftc.com/gallery/data/520/TomsSuspension.jpg (http://www.rmftc.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1227)

[foxfire]

ok we see the pic. tell us what where looking at.

[bronc_17113]

long travel ttb the beams have been cut and turned and if I remmeebr from talkin to rich in the past this guy uses xj coils

[ford_munky_man]

Well the sas is way down the road when it becomes more of a dedicated off-road truck. Till then I just doing a lift for lil more performance. I really want a long travel but a lot of the kits are expensive. So I would like more info on that if you can. And I plan just running 33's for now. Nothing to serious other than lift and 33's and the bumpers that freaky is gettin fabbed up for me.

[Starkman]

Here's a picture:
http://www.rmftc.com/gallery/data/520/TomsSuspension.jpg (http://www.rmftc.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1227)

Specs:
1986 F150 5.0 Auto 4x4
33" BFG AT
4.56 gears
Detroit in the rear

Front suspension:
Custom (homemade) extendend radius arms
XJ 8" Rusty's Offroad springs 240 pound per inch (custom upper retainer)
4" Superlift camber adjustable drop brackets (will be installing cut and turned beams as soon a cut and turn a set)
Custom shock hoops and lower brackets
12" ProComp MX6 remote reservoir, adjustable shocks
Limit straps
Lower spring threaded adjusters
6" drop pitman arm
(After this picture we moved the steering stabilizer shock to the top)

16" wheel travel (18" without straps)
This thing is soft up front. It acts like a Trophy Truck, stand on the gas and the front lifts and squats on the breaks.

Summary of things learned:
Springs:
The XJ springs need mods to fit in the upper buckets. I think a 4" spring from Wild Horses for a early Bronco would be better. They will bolt in and have a light rate. The relaxed length of the XJ spring is 22". That is what allows this thing to droop to 18". Normal lift springs for 4"-6" lift are 18" relaxed.
Radius arms:
Extending them was easy. We cut the stud part out of the sheet metal arm and basically welded tubing into then sheet metal and pressed the stud into the tubing and plug welded it.
Radius arm mounts:
Ground the rivots of and moved it back the frame to where the extended arms now sit. Drilled holes in the frame where the rivots used to be and bolted it down. Done.
Shocks:
Built a shock hoop to raise the upper mount and welded tabs to the front of the beam for the lower mount. This is needed to get 12" shocks on there which gives 18" of wheel travel.
Limit straps:
More than 16" is about where things start to bind and using the shock as a travel limiter is not so good. Bolted this to the shock tower on top and the factory lower shock mount at the bottom.

[foxfire]

cool do you have the cost?

[ford_munky_man]

Ya cost would be nice. Is there somewhere with all this information in more detail? Or is that about as detailed as it gets. Looks like fun to do but costly too. How do you cut and turn the beams and what does it accomplish exactly?

[Starkman]

I don't have all the costs but,

Springs - $175.00 plus shipping
Shocks - 2 @ $199.99 each
Straps - $50.00
Drop brackets - $199.99 plus shipping (Cut and Turned would be free by me)
Pitman arm - $75.00
Spring adjusters - $120.00

Steel - ?
Time - lots$

The point is you can do alot with the full size TTB with a little work, skill and fab tools. The Ranger TTB is not as wide and not as simple to do but it can be done.

The cool thing about TTB is that you can go fast with it. Just ask Jesse and Chuck about Rich "Ironman Stewart" Stark at the run we did last winter.

Another thing, I would have a SAS in my Ranger if I didn't already put gears and a locker in there. Now a ARB costs $900 so I can spend more money on the TTB before I will be able to throw down the cash for a SAS.

[Starkman]

Ya cost would be nice. Is there somewhere with all this information in more detail? Or is that about as detailed as it gets. Looks like fun to do but costly too. How do you cut and turn the beams and what does it accomplish exactly?

This is the detail but I would be happy to talk more about it.

See this tread,
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133719&highlight=cut+turn

I watch Wileec run his Bronco through some hard stuff with a stock Bronco. I would cut out the fenders, install as big a tire as possible add some rock sliders and bumpers and lock the front at least and have fun.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_i_4z-emF5JY/Sa021wjtRlI/AAAAAAAADX0/rRUzc7hVX2U/s720/SlaughterHouse_09.JPG

[BLOODBANE]

Dont forget that to get decent travel out of a TTB suspension you need longer radius arms. look at the difference in my Ranger and Explorer. Long arms on the Ex and stockers on the Ranger. Granted the Explorer is longer(frame length), but I have a more flex out of it than the Ranger. I plan on SASing the Ranger so I won't waste money on longer RA's right now. Anybody have some 60's laying around?

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, hmm...with all these options I am not sure what I am going to do yet. First I am going to have to have the money so I guess I have time to think and figure it out.

[250stroker]

Built a shock hoop to raise the upper mount and welded tabs to the front of the beam for the lower mount. This is needed to get 12" shocks on there which gives 18" of wheel travel.


I'm still trying to figure out how you get 18" of travel with 12" shock??? The numbers don't work for me. 12" is shorter than 18". Unless you mounted the shock about a foot back on the radius arm. Please explain as I'm not new to this.:popcorn:

[Starkman]

TTB has a 1 to 1.5 ratio shock/spring to travel. Remember the beams swing from their pivots so the shocks are sort of cantilevered. 12" x 1.5 = 18".

[ford_munky_man]

Thats pretty neat. Is there any cheap way to get long travel out of a ttb? I really want a long travel suspension but don't want to pony up alot cash for it. Like I seen a kit for like 3000 or so for front and same for back.