Hey! New to RMFTC

[ford_munky_man]

Hey, just got accepted to the RMFTC. Just wanted to say hey. I live in the northern WY area. So if anyone else around from here be nice to get to know you maybe get out to some wheeling. Uh..I drive/fixing up a 1971 Ford F-100. It has 3/4 ton axles and suspension under it, all done by me. 4" Skyjacker lift kit. It has a pretty much stock 390 FE, 'till I get the headers on. Running 4.10 gears in the rear Dana 60 and 4.09's up front in the Dana 44. It is sitting on 33" tires and 16.5" rims. That pretty much all I can think of now, any questions or anything hit me up!

[bronc_17113]

welcome
oh and:
:worthless:

[Walking Eagle]

Welcome to RMFTC.

[Hypoid]

Welcome aboard, we've been talking about you already:

http://www.rmftc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5844

X2 on the pics!

[1freaky1]

Welcome and get them pics up!

[mattadams]

Welcome to RMFTC!

[monkey4life]

Welcome!!

[ford_munky_man]

Haha, thanks for the warm welcome! A lot better than on some other forums I been on. But I am working on the pics, so they will be soon. Though, I may warn you, they are all in shop so far, havent quite finished up the front end and brakes yet, but it is getting then. Should be complete by middle of next month depending on money issues. But I see that you have been talking, maybe I'll post on that forum and try and get more info out of everyone! Thanks again for the welcome and I am glad to be here! Pictures coming soon.

[Warrlord]

Welcome aboard :thumbsup:

[Starkman]

Welcome, we are a little group and most of us are outcasts so maybe you'll fit in...

[ford_munky_man]

Haha lets only hope! But, you guys seem pretty legit and I starting to get warmed up to this place. It my second home! ;) It's a lot better then the last forum I spent a lot of time on, they weren't so friendly and not very helpful.

[PaleBlue90]

Welcome aboard :thumbsup:

+1:thumbsup:

[bronc_17113]

wheres my pics lol its nice to see another bumpside on here well at least to hear of one on here :D

[ford_munky_man]

Let's see, pics are up in one of my galleries if I did it right. I just added a few earlier too of engine and the new seats I installed. It isn't too pretty but got to love my rig to death. So there is a few pics up for viewing, if your having trouble let me know and I can try and fix it.

[bronc_17113]

mine aint purdy either opne of these days ill change that

[ford_munky_man]

Ya nothing starts out that way, lol. Were you able to view the pics? What do you think?

[bronc_17113]

I cant find em I must be dense :BangHead:
and hell up until a yr or two ago mine was my dd

[ford_munky_man]

Ya once I get this running and finished up, it will prolly be my dd as well. I have a 1992 Eagle Talon that I am driving now, but I want to sell it. At the same time, though, I want to keep it and fix that up too, but so far all my money has gone into my truck. And I think if you go into my profile there should be some kind of link that shows my album labeled ford truck. Where else can I post pictures that would be easier to find?

[bronc_17113]

I see it now looks good man. I really like the stance.

http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=17&pictureid=87

what are the axles off of?

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, I do as well. With the 3/4 springs it pushed the wheelbase farther a little bit. Right now i am in the process of switching the front springs around and getting the long side to the front, cause with the short side right now it is pushing the pinion angle down, and once I mount the rear shackles on the front springs it will push it even more. Also, the front is going to be taller than the rear so I have to figure that out too, but I'm like out of u bolt and the ones that are on are like foot and a half long!:eek: But the rear came out of a 78 250, and the front came out of a 76.

[bronc_17113]

Well hell I was goin to offer to come up and give ahand till I mapquested how far away you are. Damn!!! your up there a ways.

[bronc_17113]

Ok so I had a thought here. Is your lift and axles from a factory highboy?

[ford_munky_man]

Haha ya, quite a bit a ways from a lot of you guys in CO, not seeing a lot of people from northern WY though. Would be a big help you some how made it up here. But ya I robbed the high boy suspension off of a 71 Ford 250 and that is what I ordered the lift for as well. What is the idea?

[bronc_17113]

do u have the 2.5" lift block that was on that highboy from the factory in the rear?

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, I grabbed that with everything including the long ass square top u-bolts that came with it as well. Which I need to do something about, I used to have the actuall U looking bolt on there and now that I have these square ones they bolt on bottom of axle instead of top and I want to switch it cause the bolts for that get in the way of my shock mount. So either find a cost effective way to switch or just make a new shock mount, which seems cheaper and easier at this point.

[bronc_17113]

are the blocks on there with the lift? if not that may be why your rear end is gonna squat just a shot in the dark guess.
If they are I will try to get mesurements off my 250 as to where the shackles are at for the leafs on my frame maybe its a location issue.:dontknow:

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, there on there.

[bronc_17113]

hmmmmm

[ford_munky_man]

Are you talking about font location? I went and got measurements before I set it all up and from center to center bolt for the front and rear mounting areas for the front spring is 53".

[bronc_17113]

ok fuck
whats the weight difference between a f100 and an f250?

[ford_munky_man]

Not sure. Why? What's the thinking? lol

[bronc_17113]

just tryin to think of why the rear would be squatting. Custom suspension is always such a pain in the ass lol.

[ford_munky_man]

Haha ya! But, this started out as an actual half-ton truck that didn't run and lo and behold 6 months later you got what your looking at in the picks. End of this month will be 6.

[bronc_17113]

let me think on this today and see what I come up with for some reason it's driving me nuts lol

[ford_munky_man]

Haha well let me know what you got, anything helps!

[bronc_17113]

im goin to check out some links i have saved when i get home like mr n's dana site to see if the axle changed between the 71 you have the lift kit for and the 76 you got the axle off of. I know there has to be a simple answer just cant think of it at the moment. I get punchy twds the end of my shift lol

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, it is a 78 rear end too, if that helps any in your searches. Then the 76 front.

[bronc_17113]

ur 78 rear end is a d60 correct?

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, with 4.10 gears.

[bronc_17113]

ok just makin sure. Hopefully Mike will chime in at some point and I'm sure there are some guys over on FTE that have a lot more knowledge on stuff like this than I do

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, maybe later today I'll jump over and see what I can get out of them, too.

[bronc_17113]

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html
Here is a great resource for everything you ever wanted to know about Dana 44's and 60's

[ford_munky_man]

Ok cool. And I got to thinking, I have a bunch of shit in the back of it too, so maybe that is part of the sag problem. I have 5 tires and rims, set of front springs for a 150, set of rear springs that came off my 100, the coil spring mounts that came off, old gas tank, and various few other parts of iron, and up till recently the bench seat I took out. So maybe there is part of the problem! lol

[1freaky1]

Being that you are using the 250 suspension all that stuff in the back really shouldn't affect it. The only thing I can think of is possibly the springs are sagging. The weight difference between a 100 & 250 is not a whole lot, most of it comes from the larger engines and heavier suspensions. Don is pretty good with these things as is Mike(Hypoid).

[1freaky1]

It just dawned on me that you are in Worland, My ex had family up there and we was there gees almost 20 years ago for vacation.

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, small town, not a lot of action. Very few places to wheel as well, but the places we do we cherish. I'd like to get out, though, and ya idk why it is sagging either the only thing I can think up is the weight that is doing the sag, so I'll take it out sometime and see if it helps. lol :D

[Swat]

Welcome!

Nice looking truck but it pales in comparison to my beautiful rig.

[bronc_17113]

Welcome!

Nice looking truck but it pales in comparison to my beautiful rig.
You got a new truck? :lookupkick::laughing2:

[ford_munky_man]

Never got into the sploder scene. I have always found we had them in the auto shop at school more than any other cars combined. And, they dont have the looks of a 70's era F-series. Can't get much better than that, besides Bronc's, I always had a thing for one of them. I need to get my hands on one sometime soon after this is done.

[bronc_17113]

LOL check out his thread he has a pretty badass bronc it just aint what I would call pretty once upon a time it was though

[ford_munky_man]

Can't seem to find it, maybe looking in wrong place. Clicked on his link and it don't show a pic, and I looked on his profile and it got nothing.

[bronc_17113]

Can't seem to find it, maybe looking in wrong place. Clicked on his link and it don't show a pic, and I looked on his profile and it got nothing.
here ya go
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4789

[ford_munky_man]

Not too bad for a street/rock crawler lol. But can't say its the prettiest thing. Though it probably could show my truck up any day. But I was just thinking I will be moving to Grand Junction here in the next 1-3 years. 1 if I can find a top of the line automotive/diesel school round that area. But if not, after college I will more than likely move down there.

[bronc_17113]

It can show most of our trucks up I just said it werent pretty

[Hypoid]

Ok cool. And I got to thinking, I have a bunch of shit in the back of it too, so maybe that is part of the sag problem. I have 5 tires and rims, set of front springs for a 150, set of rear springs that came off my 100, the coil spring mounts that came off, old gas tank, and various few other parts of iron, and up till recently the bench seat I took out. So maybe there is part of the problem! lol
Prolly! I wouldn't be surprised if you had close to 500 lbs in the back...enough to make it ride like a caaaaadyyyyyylack! LOL

Keep those F-100 leaf springs! When I thought I needed new leaf springs for my 4x4, F-100, shortbed, I got an interchange list that included the F-250 4x4: Same freakin spring! I don't remember what year ranges were compatible.

Just for grins, measure the thickness of the leaves in both packs, post your findings.

[ford_munky_man]

It can show most of our trucks up I just said it werent pretty

Prolly! I wouldn't be surprised if you had close to 500 lbs in the back...enough to make it ride like a caaaaadyyyyyylack! LOL

Keep those F-100 leaf springs! When I thought I needed new leaf springs for my 4x4, F-100, shortbed, I got an interchange list that included the F-250 4x4: Same freakin spring! I don't remember what year ranges were compatible.

Just for grins, measure the thickness of the leaves in both packs, post your findings.

Ya, I want to get my truck finished so I can get out and get wheelin', I'm a little rusty lol. But my truck aint the prettiest either, everyone asks why don't you paint it? I just think it would be a waist of time to paint it cause it just going to get scrathced and dented some more so I not spending big money to get a nice paint job. If anything I'll get some paint and do it myself! LOL

Did you want just one leaf? or the whole pack? I found that the 250 one had more leaves in it than the 100. Atleast off the highboy versions of the 250. But I'll do that I heading the shop later today to swap my front springs around today and I'll get those measured and let you know what I get.

[Hypoid]

Measure how thick the main leaf (the one with the eyes) is, the second leaf, etc... I'm hoping to compare the two sets with this measurement.

[ford_munky_man]

Ok, so each leaf seperatley? Can do, I am going down there later tonight to flip my springs so I'll take some paper and see what I get and post later.

[Tilt168]

oh and welcome btw...ive been reading this thread yet hadn't even said anything!
seems like you've already made urself at home!

[bronc_17113]

do u have the front leafs on the front and the rear leafs on the rear?

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, thanks tilt, you guys have been pretty friendly and welcoming! It's a relief, the 4wheeler forums are a little more hostile, mostly because everyone fights over the big 3 and which is better, but atleast here we all share a common interest, F-O-R-D! Haha but if you got any input go right ahead and throw it out there! BTW to all you so far! Thanks for the welcome! :)

And bronc, yes rear springs are on rear, all I got for them was an add a leaf. And they are only like 2" wide, as to the fronts are fully replaced and they are 3" wide. Tomorrow I am taking out to a friends shop to get the sleeves welded into the frame. So, then I can finally mount up the rear shackles of the front springs. Then thats one step closer to the road worthy stage, only 2 steps left! I'm gettin real excited! :D

[ford_munky_man]

Oh, hypoid, I didnt get measurements, all I had was tape measure and couldnt quite get accurate. But I got some pics of them and now that I look they look just bout the same. I'll post them up in my gallerie and you can look.

[shawns 64 F100]

howdy, nice pickup, I am not sure you see the rear sagging so badly, the rear wheel wells are much smaller in the rear than the front and that makes it appear to sag. The rear bumper is also quite a bit higher than the front in the photo on page 1 of this thread, plus the body lines look good to me.
Best way to find out your ride height is to measure the travel distance from stop to stop on the suspension to frame in each corner.
Unless I am missing something? :dontknow:

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, I never realized that, well did just didn't consider it. But now that I look again that is what it appears, but I was looking at the top rail of the bed and kinda following it up to the hood and it looks as if it is going up hill. But, I know the hood is higher than the top of the bed rail so maybe this is an illusion! lol but let me know what you think.

[shawns 64 F100]

look at the body line, it should follow along together. this is how you can also tell if your body and bed mounts are rusted out or not. they look fairly straight from the picture and it has a nice rake to me. Yes, hard to go from the beds top to the hood I think there is atleast 4-5 " difference there lol
But, I dont think it is sagging in the rear at all unless your shop floor is running uphill about 10% lol

[Swat]

'Twas a joke! I dig them older Ferds! I shoudl of kept a 69 that was given to me, but I needed cash for a move and sold it.

[bronc_17113]

howdy, nice pickup, I am not sure you see the rear sagging so badly, the rear wheel wells are much smaller in the rear than the front and that makes it appear to sag. The rear bumper is also quite a bit higher than the front in the photo on page 1 of this thread, plus the body lines look good to me.
Best way to find out your ride height is to measure the travel distance from stop to stop on the suspension to frame in each corner.
Unless I am missing something? :dontknow:
HAHA I love it when the obvious is pointed out after spending so much time overanalyzing a situation.

[bronc_17113]

'Twas a joke! I dig them older Ferds! I shoudl of kept a 69 that was given to me, but I needed cash for a move and sold it.
oh I knew it was a joke I just fig id throw it back at ya bud

[ford_munky_man]

'Twas a joke! I dig them older Ferds! I shoudl of kept a 69 that was given to me, but I needed cash for a move and sold it.

HAHA I love it when the obvious is pointed out after spending so much time overanalyzing a situation.

Ya I know it was lol. I not saying mine is better and stuff, but you got yourself a pretty good rig. Not bad, just never been into that seen!

And ya that always gets me too! lol we always look over the obvious to find problems!

[Hypoid]

HAHA I love it when the obvious is pointed out after spending so much time overanalyzing a situation.
Hmmmmm.....


Yeah, that spring pack is totally different. I like it though, having more thin leaves seems to work nicely on our XJ.

I have never tried an add-a-leaf. I read accounts where the single thicker leaf made the ride excessively harsh and did not seem to flex very well... Until the spring wore out.

Is that one big honkin leaf really good for 4"?

Here is something to think about: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/741520-sky-manufacuring-shackle-flip-install.html

I found some pretty good pics in ivanribic's gallery:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&userid=113895&albumid=13227

Search "shackle flip" and grab a soda, you'll be reading for awhile: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/376016-shackle-flip-questions.html

[ford_munky_man]

Hmmmmm.....


Yeah, that spring pack is totally different. I like it though, having more thin leaves seems to work nicely on our XJ.

I have never tried an add-a-leaf. I read accounts where the single thicker leaf made the ride excessively harsh and did not seem to flex very well... Until the spring wore out.

Is that one big honkin leaf really good for 4"?

Here is something to think about: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/741520-sky-manufacuring-shackle-flip-install.html

I found some pretty good pics in ivanribic's gallery:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&userid=113895&albumid=13227

Search "shackle flip" and grab a soda, you'll be reading for awhile: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/376016-shackle-flip-questions.html

the spring pack is different from what? Each other?

And I would have just replaced the rears instead of an add a leaf, but I didn't have the money at the moment and didn't want to wait! haha, the add a leafe was round 800 and to replace the rear springs was 1200, so I decided on the add a leaf.

And I'm pretty sure that it is good on the 4", front and back are even and it is a hell of a lot taller than it use to be. It is taller than my bro in laws chevy with a 4" lift and we other ran 4" lifts.

And are you suggesting I do a shackle flip? wouldnt that uneven my font and back? Just a question. Looks like some work but maybe I will when I replace body bushings.

[bronc_17113]

ur 4" is more like a 6". shackle flip i think was an alternative to the aal and a great idea to boot

[ford_munky_man]

You think I got 6" of lift out of it? That pretty good, never measured before height, but a shackle flip with the aal? How much does one of the brackets cost to flip it?

[bronc_17113]

no I think the shackle flip would be an alternative I think the sky shackle flip would run u araound 2 - 250. Keep in mind ur 4" lift is 4" over factory and since ur using a highboy lift they had a 2" lift from the factory

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, could I use a shackle flip with the aal? Just throwing some ideas around. I went and finished up the frame shackle bushings last night and got the sleeves welded in and the bushings and spacers pushed in. The only thing im waiting on now is to get some longer bolts. And I put some cool off road lights on the bumper too, so I'll post the light pics up. But, after I buy some brake lines and shocks I'll be trail-ready! :D

[Hypoid]

I would ditch the AAL. I know, it's a little late to find that one out, but I think you'll want to do something different soon enough. I'm not sure about the full-size trucks, but I think 4" is kind of a magical number where you don't have to look at pinion angles, caster angle, and drive shaft length. IIRC, taller than 4" and you have new problems to solve.

If you study all the pictures in ivanribic's shackle flip gallery, you'll notice he used the existing hanger for one example. In a nutshell, for the price of 8, grade-8 nuts and bolts, he got 4" of lift.

Monkey4life used F-250 springs to lift his FSB. In his own words, "It wheels like a brick!" I was kinda funny, he watched my wife's station wagon walk through this hole keeping all 4 tires on the ground. It was a little more than he anticipated (LOL) when his truck started to teeter-totter:
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee120/Hypoid/Saxon/th_f458c42a.jpg (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee120/Hypoid/Saxon/?action=view&current=f458c42a.flv)

[ford_munky_man]

Well with my front I need something different because the shaft is long enough and it is too steep of an angle. And would buying the rear leaf pack for the 4" work better? I'll check into ivanribic's gallery and see what is up there.

[bronc_17113]

are you saying that you need to change your pinion angle?

[ford_munky_man]

Ya. I would just cut off the perches and give it a little more, but, the driver side perch is attached to the pumpkin so it makes it almost impossible. I was looking though, at Tom Woods Super-Flex U-Joint. Seems like a pretty legit deal. If you haven't heard it is an offset u-joint that gives about 10 more degrees of flex. And it is only about $60. This was what I am most likely going to get to fix it, it has downsides though, which is a hum above 30mph. But I won't get much faster than that anyway so it isn't a big concern to me.

[Hypoid]

There are definitely more than a few answers to a given problem, as you are discovering:

How much correction does the pinion angle need? Having the low pinion axle really sets you back from the start. I'd sure like to see a picture of the front axle you took out. Not the news you want to hear, but you may have taken out the better assembly.

You could look at degree shims to rotate the pinion, although not a popular choice. Howsabout a link to this $60 U-Joint?

The add-a-leaf might be great for a full throttle blast through a mud pit, but that is not my intended useage. If I can't afford a new leaf pack, I'd relocate or re-work the stock leaves. As you see, old, stock leaf packs with a little love and a few extra details.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee120/Hypoid/Misc%20stuff/ALL_CATCH177.jpg

The choices I would make are dictated by the cash I have in my pocket, my ability to make what I can't afford, and whatever people are willing to barter on. I'm pretty cheap that way. Looking at the problems you have to resolve, I'll have to do a lot of research and ask as many questions as you are. LOL

[ford_munky_man]

I might be able to get a new leaf pack for the rear, the front already has one. And here are a couple links to the joint:

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/drivetrain/129_0506_tom_woods_super_flex_u_joint/index.html

http://www.4xshaft.com/Super-Flex.html

I was asking on another forum about shims and they said that it would change alignment stuff and would be squirrelly on and off road. If I get a chance soon I will get a pic of it. But it needs a little more drop. A bout 2" if I remember right. But ya, I pretty cheap too, lol, and I try and make what I can that would be far out of my budget. But, I will get a pic or two up here sometime in the next few days.

[Hypoid]

Yeah, there are a few reasons the shims are not popular. I did have another thought; does your drive shaft have one of these?

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/tacoma_4runner_30k/double_cardan.jpg

I googled, found this page. I have not read it, but it seems to have a lot of useful info:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml

[ford_munky_man]

No, it doesn't have one of those. And just for clarification, my rear shaft angle is fine, it is the front drive shaft I am having trouble with. And that sight just explains what a u-joint is pretty much, doesn't really give any ideas. Also, I need a solution for my rear u-joint. I have the little joint and the cups aren't big enough for the pinion on the rear axle. How do I fix this? Isn't there a conversion kit for that?

[bronc_17113]

you could probablly do as mike suggested and do what I believe is called a double cardan joint and have one side take the ujoint that ur d shaft takes and the other side have the ujoint that your differential takes you also may be able to use those doubled up on your current front dshaft to get a little bit better angle i am not positive though

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, is that what your suggesting is the picture? And where would I get these? What about the Super-Flex? Just looking for different options. Thanks for the help so far.

[bronc_17113]

any driveline shop could make what u need or lengthen your shafts chang the yoke etc...

[ford_munky_man]

They can make me a double cardan joint? What applications could I rob this off of. And the shaft don't need lengthened jsut need a different angle.

[Hypoid]

You can probably find one on a '70s, short bed, 4x4. I don't know if the full size Broncos have double cardans, but with the shorter wheel base they should have the larger U-joints and yokes that will allow greater operating angles.

Hopefully you saved the shafts from the donor truck. Something that Don and I learned from Robin's hi-boy is that there is a specialized U-joint that works between different sized yokes. It seems that Ford used them to match up some otherwise incompatible combinations. IIRC, Ory helped Don track down the right replacement for his application.

After reviewing the article I posted, and one of the articles he cited, I have to ask why you say the angle needs correction. The solution depends on setting up the problem, and we have not seen any hard data, just one statement: "Well with my front I need something different because the shaft is long enough and it is too steep of an angle."

BillaVista's article is one hell of a read, I had to stop after page two. I'll have to finish the rest later: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html


Just out of curiosity, did you happen to take apart the slip shaft? Having the shaft out of phase like the blue arrows show will screw with your game plan. The fixed part of the U-Joints should be on the same line like the green arrows show.
( http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/phase.jpg )

[monkey4life]

You can probably find one on a '70s, short bed, 4x4. I don't know if the full size Broncos have double cardans, but with the shorter wheel base they should have the larger U-joints and yokes that will allow greater operating angles.


yes, FSB's have the double cardan joint on the rear shaft. just check the flanges, they changed in 86+ as the picture hypoid posted demonstrates.

[bronc_17113]

Fsb's use them top correct short shaft issue angles basically your probablly going to need to have one custom made since you are looking to go from one shaft to the other to be honest at this point im shooting in the dark. I think you need to adress one problem before you jump to the next

[ford_munky_man]

Ok, Bronc, I not sure what you are talking about, I am not connecting two shafts together, if that is what I understand you are saying. And, Hypoid, well all actually, I will post up a pic of what I am talking about. And, I only have one issue. My driveshaft angle is not steep enough to make it to the diff on the front axle. So, if we are all confused, maybe the pic will help and we can start over on our options. I'll be needing some straight answers here this week because that is when I'll be making some purchases and stuff, cause after I am saving money for my Mexico trip! :thumbsup: But, here tonight I will have a pic, so sorry for any confusion! :confused: lol

[bronc_17113]

well you've been looking at whether or not to do a shackle flip etc etc etc... i never said anything about connecting two shafts but from what you are saying your u joint on your shaft is a different size than it is on your diff so you need a doudle card that accepts the ujoint from your shaft on one side and the u joint from your diff on the other that is not necessariy going to be a stock piece. I've lost track of exactly what ur doing here is this 2wd - 4wd or is this a 1/2 ton 4x4 - 3/4 ton 4x4 aplication? divorced t case or married?

[ford_munky_man]

Ok, it is a 4wd 1/2 ton with 3/4 suspension and axles. The tcase is married. I was asking about the double cardan for the front driveshaft for better angle. Or, what other possible routes there where.

With the u-joint for the back I was asking for a conversion kit for just the u-joint, because I was reading somwhere that you can get a kit for NAPA or something.

And I think I got passed the shackle flip.

Sorry for any confusion that has occured. Tonight I will come back with a pic of the drive shaft angle and stuff so we can further address that problem.

[ford_munky_man]

Ok, here is what the front driveshaft is looking like:

http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=17&pictureid=123

That is where it is binding up. So right there is a representation of how much drop I need. So what kind of options do I have here?

Nextly, Is my rear u-joint connecting the diff and the shaft, the cup is too small, what can I do here:

http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=17&pictureid=122

It is a little blurry but you can pretty much make out the dilemma.

[84broncoII]

I hate to horn in on Your thred but the last time i had to do a swap similar to this one I had to use the end of the shaft that came with the diff that I used and the shaft from the trany i was using I measured the distance between the vallies of the u joints on the dif and the tranie brought all the pieces to ,,,Gosh its been so long ago I thing it was denver driveshaft they simply cut off the end and spliced it back together and ballenced it back in the day the job cost Me 60.00 I bet its twice that now though as everything went double except My wages LOL I called first and made an apointment They did the whole job while I waited and I had time to shoot the shit with one of the guys at the time I rember there biggest business was ballancing driveshafts that had thrown thier wieghs the dealerships were giving them a steady streem of business with just that aspect one of the techs said that customers were going to the dealers complaning about vibration and they had already been to the tire store and it was still vibrating and so they thought it was a load of faulty U joints but it turned out to be wieghts LOL
My other thought is that Your pinoin angle should be basiclly the same on either vehical the original and the one You installed it in and most Ive seem are parillelat curb hight meaning if its sitting level the pinoin shoild be level on both vehicals with this angle your caster angle should be rightif with your present spring and shackel or what wever spring and shackel set up you decide to uese You may have to either shim or change the pirches to acomidate the present situation but You basically need to fix the angle of the pinion/Caster to stock and then go fron there due mostly to oiling and or lubrication drivability excetera issues of the front diff the next issue is the angle between the two end joints on mine if You choose to use the double joint it is located near the trany and the diff is a single unit that bolts up to the diff with a flange Ive seen a double cardon done the other way the slip yoke being on the end of the driveshaft with fixed flanges on either end I think in both instances Ive seen the slip joint at the top nerest to the tranie. The biggest and most important thing about any slip joint is that the shaft cant be too long so that at complete compression or somwhere inbetween full compression of the spring and full extension of the spring it should not bind against the transmition which would cause failure of the trany or the front diff I would think the tranny if it were gonna take a hit as its thinner cast or even maby aluminum .The othe r aspect to think of is the full extension of the spring You dont want the slip joint falling out so measure both giving a little extra in case of a bounce when fulliy extended make shure Your shaft is long enuff but not to long as to bind .the system has to work in both directions to the extreem :twocents:

[ford_munky_man]

Your talking about the rear right? I would have to see if I can go get that shaft. Wish I woulda known that before I got my current one shortened, I had that done for $40. Is there another way to go with the u-joint on the rear? I am guessing that your way may be the cheapest and fastest. What I am more worried about now is my front though. I need to get the shaft on to the front diff.

[84broncoII]

I was refering to correct order of business on either front or rear the only difference is You need to have stock castor on the front at curb wieght and hight

[84broncoII]

Anther thing if You feel uneasy about the shims I dont see any reason they couldnt be welded in after You figure out the proper angle just Make shure the u-bolts arnt exposed to the heat of the welding process as this could chngthe tensil strength .You never want to weld on a spring in the middle or a bolt in the middle as bolts and springs carry the same properties in this respect

[84broncoII]

I should add that I stayed at the hilton tonight and am feeling like a smrt ars and these instructions should be taken as a guide and not as a bible or a tech rite -up im just outing My 2 cents in and everything You do is Your responsibility

[84broncoII]

The only difference I could find is if You decided to use this vehicale for rockclimbing only ....say you were going to trailer the rig to and from events : then You could modify the pinoin angles to extreems wouldnt really mater cause they gonna ge oil LOL the other thing is castor angle If You only gonna go wto miles an hour You acn use anty castor/oilin angle You want jus mak eshure You put oil in th edang thing so's not to but a nut when You compepin LOL

[84broncoII]

Check the rear motor mounts and the fronts replace as nesesary first after but yea your first priority is fixing the pinoin angle take all the wieght out and then measure and make shure Your bumpstops are stopping things before they break ,I know alota nag nag nag these things all have to be considered its fun to be a builder Hu?

[84broncoII]

I should add that on older vehivcals it is very possiblre to have a bent /broken frame not the end of the world but possible and fixable just too much to deal with in a single sentence

[ford_munky_man]

Ok, sorry I must of posted that before you edited your post. But I would want to re-weld the perches on but the drivers side is attached to the diff housing which makes it impossible to do unless I had a shop cut tubes out and re-weld them in and stuff, but I dont have that kind of money. And shims aren't the best route I have heard. I still like the idea of the Tom Woods Super-Flex U-Joint. Most cost effective for what I need. And it will be a d/d around town and a mud/rock truck for local areas. If I chance to I want to join some of your guys' events down in CO. So ya.

[84broncoII]

Well I think if you had a welder a shim would be super safe I wouldnt just stuff one in and You could shim it with anything wouldnt have to buy aftermarket if You took your time and all but that s jus me LOLYou still need the alignment pin and a hole to put it in but it wouldnt be a major mod to change the angle without cutting the perches of and then rewelding like I say thats just Me it might look cleener to cut and re weld but it might look just fine to wels shims in too the most important thing is the angle of the castor and pinion
:thumbsup:

[ford_munky_man]

ya. but the shims themselves change steering geometry and stuff, and with too much I think it would be inpractical due to improper set-up. I agree it would be easy, just not sure if it would be the right way. Maybe that just me though. What does everyone else think? Just need a lot of info and stuff before I end up doing something to it.

[bronc_17113]

get me a picture of the whole thig connected not so zoomed in if you would. It looks like u just need to tip your yoke up a tad

[ford_munky_man]

Ok, I'll see if I can grab one tomorrow. I pretty sure that I just need some drop, I think that the Super-Flex would do the trick. I'll post a pic up tomorrow if I get a chance to swing by the shop.

[Hypoid]

Wow, I doze off after dinner and watch what happens! LOL

At least we are all talking about the same things: Caster angle v.s. pinion angle, and getting U-Joints/shafts to fit two different applications.

I say measure your U-Joints and search the Spicer catalog. I know they do make joints that join different sized yokes.

Caster angle: I say this with all due respect for the work you have done, but what is your current caster angle? Have you measured it to determine that it is in spec? That thought has been in the back of my mind since we started examining the problem.

I'm still researching this axle, but now that I have woke up I'm going to bed. LOL

grump out...

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, it has been a while since I got your opinion on things! LOL. But how do you measure the caster angle? Everything that is done to the front hasn't been changed because one of the perches is part of the pumpkin and makes things real hard to do to make the pinion angle right again, if I just had the high pinion I would be fine...

[84broncoII]

Ya, it has been a while since I got your opinion on things! LOL. But how do you measure the caster angle? Everything that is done to the front hasn't been changed because one of the perches is part of the pumpkin and makes things real hard to do to make the pinion angle right again, if I just had the high pinion I would be fine...
I dont know about everybody else but if I were You I would have measured the pinion angle on the original doner truck before dissasembly but since You didnt do that there are three ways I can think of to measure castor
first would be to find another truck with the same axel You have make shure its sitting on a perfectly level surface and measure the pinion angle of that truck then set Yours the same way with Your truck on a level surface and its normal payload like iffin Your gonna carry a big camper or compressor or welding rig excetera engine trany everything in place
You can use one of them fancy angle finders that builders /carpenters use some of them have magnets on them
the second way would be to tear apart your front down to the knuckel and set a straight edge between the two knuckle ends then You have a long level and measure the difference between plumb and your castor and adjust as nesecary
a third way to measure it would be to take it to a shop with an alignment machine
a fourth way would be to make a tool out two equal pieces of stock and a third piece equal or slightly greater to the distance to the length of your front knuckle the tool would look like a three sidded rectangle and you could clamp it on the knuckle and then measure the angle of the castor with a straight edge and a level
I also have a coupla of pics of steering geometry in My profile page Hope this helps:D
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=126
http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=125

[ford_munky_man]

I would of taken measurements off of it but, it was from an out of town wrecking yard and they already had it off a long time ago. So I never got a chance to do that.

[84broncoII]

Well basically You can set it up with either negative or positive caster either way works and how much depends on ride hight and the stance You want
I would say that You'd want between 3 and 7 degrees thats 3 minimum and 7 maximum of either positive or negitive castor at finnished curb hight and wieght .give or take a degree in either direction The only problem You would run into maby is if you went with negitive castor and them carried a really heavy load in the rear wich brought your caster to near zero then youd probably get a shimmy. If You set it up with too much caster however Your truck will tend to want to pullwhen driving alond a road with crouned pavement or in a crosswind also rember that once You have Your caster where You think it should be then You have to set Your tow- in if You decide to change caster later with a shim then You also need to reset Your tow -in again no worries though tow in is the easyest one of all to set

[ford_munky_man]

Is there anyway to adjust it w/o shims. I understand it all I have learned it pretty well in the last 4 years of school and we just got an alignment lift set up. What else is there besides shims? cause if I had to much shim to make the pinion angle work wouldnt my steering be less responsive due to the downward point of the front of the diff?

[84broncoII]

If You have raised Your ride hight to a point that Youd need to change the pitmon arms length like make it longer yea then You lose some steering response but I havent heard it being a problem just one of the things 4 wheelers do to increase hight and fix bumpsteer You need to have full travel of all steering components when the springs are fully extended and fully compressed on either corner if You havent changed the ride hight too drastically from stock spring hight You shouldnt have to increase the pitman arms length

[ford_munky_man]

It has a 4" lift from a Skyjacker, and then has the 2" from the factory F250, and mine is the F100 so it had no factory lift so I am guessing that it has bout 6" lift. And no pitman arm change, but I am ordering one here soon.

[84broncoII]

Is there anyway to adjust it w/o shims. I understand it all I have learned it pretty well in the last 4 years of school and we just got an alignment lift set up. What else is there besides shims? cause if I had to much shim to make the pinion angle work wouldnt my steering be less responsive due to the downward point of the front of the diff?Oh:eek:Heck!!You went to school:eek:i should be asking you?? :thumbsup:I only make this shit up as i go along LOL:D:twocents:

I would sugest you get the point of the diff to be as close to parilel to the ground as possible and even point the back up slightly is ok all things considered You'd want that anywhay to get it pointing toward Your transfer case and save You from any possible binding of the u joints Your pinion agle looks wrong to Me in the pic I saw it looked as though it was pointing down to the ground when it should be pointing towards the transfer case

[ford_munky_man]

Well, the pic was taken at an angle. I can get a straight picture of it, I have to get one of the whole driveshaft too for someone else on here. But now it is parallel to the ground.

[ford_munky_man]

Here is a little bit of a better picture and it looks pretty level. And bronc, here is a pic not zoomed in for ya.

http://www.rmftc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=17&pictureid=127

[84broncoII]

did You look for another truck with Your axel set up and check the angle? do you have shocks on it yet ?why do you have blocks under Your trany?

[bronc_17113]

If I had to guess you are going to have to change your pinion angle to get everything to go together right. I could be wrong though

[84broncoII]

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/214728/fullsize/im001065.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/media/214728_1)
this pic was also taken from a top angle but it looks as though the pinion is pointing directly to the transfer case
and it seems that You could do alot as far as working the axel to the right angle if you simply lifted the front mount on the spring

[ford_munky_man]

did You look for another truck with Your axel set up and check the angle? do you have shocks on it yet ?why do you have blocks under Your trany?


this pic was also taken from a top angle but it looks as though the pinion is pointing directly to the transfer case
and it seems that You could do alot as far as working the axel to the right angle if you simply lifted the front mount on the spring

I haven't been out to look yet. No shocks yet. The blocks aren't on the tranny it is on the crossmember because I was putting in the spring shackle bolts.

And is that the same vehicle model? Just a ? But, how would I do the front of the springs? The front of it is all custom done because of the 3/4 ton swap.

[bronc_17113]

just a question but why swap a front 44 for a front 44? the strength difference is negligible?

[84broncoII]

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/684532/fullsize/dscn1133.jpg
These are all pics off of full size bronco web site and I think they are all later models than yours like the oldest one I found was 86 but in every instance like the pic above the pinion angle is pointing toward the transfer case now keep in mind that these are all sitting with the wieght of the truck sitting on the axel .The reason I asked You if you had the shocks on is that You will be dropping more with out shocks and with drop You will get some axel wrap that'll point the pinion tothe ground more I somehow dont think it should go as low as Yopurs but pics dont tell all I think though that if you install shocks and it still drops that low and if it doesnt point towards the transfer case with load on the springs that Ypou should eithe attempt to fix the situation by extensions on the fron t of the springs raising it from the frame or attaching the rear of the springs closer to the frame or both to correct the pinion angle so that it points to the transfer case

[ford_munky_man]

The other front end was trashed and woulda cost more to replace the gears and other parts that were thrashed on it (drums, bearings, hubs, studs, etc.) than to buy a whole new front end.

[84broncoII]

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67248 This thred has a welth of info maby not your exact vehical but still an excelent guidline and You could also ask the guys that hav eactually done one recently
Personally Im just reserching Your questions and they are good ones because Im interested in doing a sas on My BIIs possibly in the near future I just havent set a date and Im trying to build My nerve and knoledge base im glad You asked the questions because it gave Me a motivation to try and look for answers

[bronc_17113]

oh ok that makes sense

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, it is stumping me, I am just trying to figure out how I am going to change the pinion angle with the drivers side perch attached to the punkin, w/o using shims. Just looking for all the options before I jump into one and sink my money into something I am not going to be satisfied with or end up not having it work.

[bronc_17113]

well id the weather is decent i will look at my highboy tommorrow

[ford_munky_man]

Ok thanks man, it would help alot, and pictures would give good visual if you can get some. One, thing though, is I think that the highboys had a divorced t-cases, which gives a longer shaft and decreases the angle.

[Hypoid]

Lets get some pics of your mounts at the frame.

I think you are right about the divorced T-case, but the pinion angle still looks awful low. I'll look through my junkyard pics, see what I can dig up for that front suspension.

Think of it this way: You are taking an old house off it's foundation, to set it on another old foundation. Dont worry about turning the tubes just yet, that's about the last option.

The open knuckle axles have off-set ball joints for minor caster corrections. I don't know if this is possible with the closed knuckle axles, but I'll see what I can find out.

[ford_munky_man]

Ok, I'll try and get some pics of the mounts and ya, but the angle is low but would be a little better for the divorced t-case, but not quite working out in this situation. It is difficult but needs to be fixed so I can get my 4WD engaged.

[bronc_17113]

what if you swapped in a divorced setup? I don't have a lot of experience with closed knuckle setups myself. I'm just not sure that there is an easy solution for your problem. Did you have everything hooked up with just the highboy suspension on there before u put the lift in? I just got to thinking with my highboy bein a 77 it may not matter about my setup I think its a bit different

[ford_munky_man]

Well the high boy set up stayed the same from about 70 till 77.5, so depending on what month or w/e it is made it might be the same. I didnt have any highboy suspension before the lift, I put it in when I got the lift. A divorced set up may be in the question, a local wrecking yard has a truck now that has all the stuff I needed after I went and pieced mine together. So I may go out tomorrow and see what he has and for what prices, One thing though, is I have another axle that isn't pieced together out of a 78 3/4 ton. It has, well had, 4.10 gears, but they were shot. I kept that one to piece it together here after I got done spending money on getting mine finished up. It is an open knuckle disk brake as well, with the high pinion. It needs new rotors, calipers, pads, all new u-joints, ring and pinion, seals, hubs, and maybe new axle shafts. My thinking was get that put together when I had extra money and then swap it in when complete, but looks like it may have to be sooner. But ya, I'll go check on how much he want for divorced and see how much work it will be to stuff her in there.

[bronc_17113]

no it didnt. They stayed low pinion through 77.5 but in in 76 and early 77 like minethey have open knuckles.:D after mid yr 77 the highboy no longer was produced.

[ford_munky_man]

Ok, that makes sense now. I was talking with my shop teacher today and showed him a pic of my situation and he said that a double cardon joint would probably be the easiest and cheapest way to go about this. Also shimming it might help, but he wants to look at the castor before I do that to see how much we have to work with. What do you guys think?

[bronc_17113]

I thin your shop teacher being a proffesional in all honesty probablly knows more than I do.

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, but he has been wrong about a few things. I just looking at it in all the aspects. He is a general shop teacher and not really sure he knows much bout the off-road, but it is kind of a technical thing. And I just getting ideas from you guys and some may have been in my position through trial and error with your own rigs at some time. but I am thinking, getting the Super Flex from Tom Woods and put in replace of the top u-joint between t-case and shaft, then doing the double cardan at the shaft to the diff. Is that the best way to do this or just do the double cardan at front? Or back of shaft?

[84broncoII]

I think that the caster angle is calling You for a check LOL just to see if You can figure out if You know what Your talking about doing is so much more than talking about it ....Don't You think?

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, I am getting to the doing point. But, till I get some money it is going to be in the talking stage. Cause my bro-in-law decided to push out my truck and leave it outside the shop with the key sitting on it and now it is gone. So I have to get another one, and I wanting on my brake line extenders so I can stop, then I can get it to the alignment machine and see what there is to play with.

[bronc_17113]

another truck?

[84broncoII]

I knbow a place here near denver where you can get stanles steel brake lines for cheep It is called peterson fluifd systems and all You have to do is tell them how long you want the hoses to be and send them a pic or beter yet the actual ends and they will sent You the individual fittings to piece it together it is wicked cheep and they look great thier # is (800)926-7867 they are located at 9801 Havana St.Henderson,Co 80640 www.petersonfluidsys.com (http://www.petersonfluidsys.com) good luck

[ford_munky_man]

another truck?

Another truck what?

I knbow a place here near denver where you can get stanles steel brake lines for cheep It is called peterson fluifd systems and all You have to do is tell them how long you want the hoses to be and send them a pic or beter yet the actual ends and they will sent You the individual fittings to piece it together it is wicked cheep and they look great thier # is (800)926-7867 they are located at 9801 Havana St.Henderson,Co 80640 www.petersonfluidsys.com (http://www.petersonfluidsys.com) good luck

And cool thanks I will check it out and see what they got, I was just going to order ones off of 4wheelparts.com they dont seem to bad for some hydralic line stuff.

[84broncoII]

I did the front lines on My trail rig bronco and got a great response becose the lines are more rigid than stock and there is no fade at all I also did My motorcycle and the improvment was ausome to say the least .I can send You pics of the installs if You like .I made a 44" one(THE FRONT BRAKE) for the KLR 600 I have and it only cost me 20 bucks and it looks great and performs better than ever before .

[bronc_17113]

Cause my bro-in-law decided to push out my truck and leave it outside the shop with the key sitting on it and now it is gone.
You need Another truck?

thats waht i was talking about :thumbsup:

[ford_munky_man]

Haha why? It only was pushed because the rear line wasn't hooked up yet. And don't worry, I have heard that before lol, along with my car!

[bronc_17113]

u said and now its gone i thought someone stole it

[ford_munky_man]

Oh no!! Haha just a key! they took the key and my truck nutz key chain. So ya, just need new key. Oh man if it was stolen I would be freakin out now! But I am sure no one would steal it, I mean it is ugly! LOL

[bronc_17113]

well ur better off without gay truck nutz anyways. Try other old ford keys you have laying around my 86 key starts my 69 as well.

[ford_munky_man]

Well it wasn't for my truck, it was just a key chain, and those damn things cost me $20, haha. But I'll see if I got any laying around that might work, I know I got a few old ones somewhere...

[Warrlord]

well ur better off without gay truck nutz anyways. Try other old ford keys you have laying around my 86 key starts my 69 as well.

Or.................get a few feet of wire, run it from the positive battery terminal to the positive (+) side of the coil, place the blade of a flatblade screwdriver between the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid & the positive battery cable where it's bolted to the solenoid (make sure the transmission is in neutral!), it'll start & you can drive it. Disconnect the wire to your coil to kill it.

[Glass]

Or.................get a few feet of wire, run it from the positive battery terminal to the positive (+) side of the coil, place the blade of a flatblade screwdriver between the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid & the positive battery cable where it's bolted to the solenoid (make sure the transmission is in neutral!), it'll start & you can drive it. Disconnect the wire to your coil to kill it.

Keeep in mind, that if you do it this way, the battery wont be getting a charge form the alternator, none of the turn signals will work, no accessories such as radio, wipers etc will work.

Ford only had about 6 different key cuts back then, you ahve a good chance of finding one that will start it up. You can always go to carquest and buy another "universal jeep" ignition for it. Those ignitions are what we use in anything older we build.

[ford_munky_man]

Somewhere around my house I have a few older Ford keys I have collected over the years. It is just a matter of finding them now.

[Warrlord]

Keeep in mind, that if you do it this way, the battery wont be getting a charge form the alternator, none of the turn signals will work, no accessories such as radio, wipers etc will work.

That's why it's fine for just moving it in or out of the garage :thumbsup:

[Glass]

That's why it's fine for just moving it in or out of the garage :thumbsup:

but what if you need tunes!!!!!:D

[ford_munky_man]

but what if you need tunes!!!!!:D

Ha, the truck dont even have a stereo, no harness for it either, but I am pretty good with stereo stuff so I just going to get a ground and a hot wire and acc wire and that is all and hook up speakers then I got it made! But thanks for the tip for going in and out Glass.

[Hypoid]

Ok, that makes sense now. I was talking with my shop teacher today and showed him a pic of my situation and he said that a double cardon joint would probably be the easiest and cheapest way to go about this. Also shimming it might help, but he wants to look at the castor before I do that to see how much we have to work with. What do you guys think?
I think he's a pretty intelligent fella! LOL I searched around and found off-set king pin sets for the D-60, don't know if they would work with your HD 44.

Now that someone thinks they have your key, they might wait until the truck is running to take it. Wire up a discreet switch to disable the starter circuit. ;)

X2 on the gay nutz. They were funny the first time I saw a picture, not funny since.

[ford_munky_man]

I think he's a pretty intelligent fella! LOL I searched around and found off-set king pin sets for the D-60, don't know if they would work with your HD 44.

Now that someone thinks they have your key, they might wait until the truck is running to take it. Wire up a discreet switch to disable the starter circuit. ;)

Do they not make any for the HD44?

Ya, I was thinking about that too, LOL. How would I wire something like that up? Would I have to actually run it from the starter or just the solenoid? Cause the solenoid is way easier to get to! LOL :idea:

[bronc_17113]

just take ur battery with you that makes for a good switch and youd be amazed whatit does for the arm carrying it

[ford_munky_man]

LOL ya I need a little work out I'm rather scrawny! :o

[Hypoid]

How would I wire something like that up? Would I have to actually run it from the starter or just the solenoid?
I would interrupt the ignition wire under the dash. Ford typically has two wires to the coil: one for the run circuit, one for the cranking circuit. If you interrupt the run circuit, you can crank and get fire in the cylinders...until you let off the key.
http://fordification.com/wiring.htm
Maybe mount a mini-switch in a discreet place that you could reach without being obvious. A place where you couldn't accidently bump it. ;)

BTW, never, ever, EVER mention fordification.com over at FTE, not even in a PM. I've been suspended twice for that, and I don't even visit there much. LOL

[ford_munky_man]

Oh, what is wrong with that sight? Just a question. I don't even get on the other forum much anymore. All my stuff gets answered here most of the time! But, I got a new key and tumblers today, so not a big deal on being stolen anymore! But that would be a nice tidbit to know just in case.

[Hypoid]

http://fordification.com/censorship.htm

The thread that got my last vacation: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/691218-good-sticky-or-faq-topic.html

I still hang out at FTE because I have made friends there. Some got fed up with the post nazis and moved on. I have a few email addys, get a few pictures now and then.

[ford_munky_man]

Wow, that is a bunch of BS. It is not like you can't be a part of both forums anyway! I mean hell, I am part of about 15 or so. What of it? That is just plain stupid and ignorant. Sorry to here that though, glad you are keeping your sight strong and sticking it to the man. Oh and didnt you want to see some pics of the from shackle mounts? Or was that someone else? It was a while back so I dont remember, but I will post them up in my Ford Truck album for anyone to look at.

[Hypoid]

I don't have any sites, I'm just a baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad man! LOL Just don't mention THAT site on FTE and you'll be OK.

I search the other forums for info, I just hang out in the FE room and coach guys who have probably never seen a carburator before. LOL

I was interested in the frame mounts when the caster was in question. Now that you have a date with the alignment rack, I think you'll be able to sort the angles.

Post em up all the same!

[84broncoII]

I had a problem once with a website Myself --I relaize that some web owners can and do what they want to mold or grow thier business .I feel i visit anyones websit as a privilage and dont usually go out of My way to offend .I'd simply not post ofr take My post elswhere .I've been cencored as well and with good reason I think most of the time moderators dont think i notice and usually I pay no attention I personally dont gain anything by posting I look at as just passing the time .I sometimes feel satisfied when My posts have been deleted and edited and someone hss posted it better and in his own name .I did get irritated once when a site owner told Me I needed to re write My name and location on every one of My posts or they wouldnt be included .especially if anyone wanted that info all they had to do was click on My profile ?? the whole mess just became a boore and I relized it was an excuse for the owner and moderatores to re write My posts and clame them for thier own .i still didnt care I type like shit and it is all good .problems occured when I felt some of My good shade tree posts were deleted just because some manufacture had a300 or 1000 doller part for sale and some 20 minute back yard tinkering mad ethe part kinda obsolite .I always had the idea that those that had the money and wanted to spend it that way could and that it could still be good if I could add some old fashioned back yard intuition .but I offended some and got thr boot .LOL such as life LOL thr web is huge .

[84broncoII]

Wich kind of reminds Me of the last time I took my truck in to an alignment mechanic
Mineki or maby it was midus either one LOL was offering a alignment for 69 bucks .
Not just a check a real alignment for 69.So like any dumb ars Im driving dowm the road and I had changed My tie rod ends a coupla months earler because I found some bad ones .I had checked My toe in after but at the time I was not as familiar with all the other stuff like castor and camber and what procedure to use or follow to do any of that crap .So I pull in and sign up and they put My truck on the rack and then the tech comes out anf says to Me they can't do the alignment cause they dont have the specs on a truck that old .well to his chagrin I had the specs on My seat in the cab of the truck I even had the original shop manual and the procedure to check it .Well He got really upset with this and looked and then threw the book back into the truck and began pounding on My new tie rods and some the upper control arms with a tie rod fork tool .I in the office and I hear all this pounding and Im like WTF!!??
and the manager says to Me sometimes He has to use a hammer to loosen the ends to get them right .In My mind im thinking like yea if i ahd a bad one and He actually needed to replace some thing Yea that could Be true .Butt like I said I replaced then recently and so I ran out to find Him pounding on My controle arms with a sledge hammer .It turnes out that the control arm bushing for My truck are 1000.00 bucks a side to replace and now the side He was hammering on hasn't been the same since .To boot My parts arnt listed in any catalog I can find .so if I order the ones I think Might fit Its just a crap shoot iffin they'll work or not .So to fix the darn thing i may havta change out the whole thing and get maby a straght axel .Might have to go 4 wheel drive on My old 62 GMC because some arshole didn't like My face .or wanted to Make Me an offer on My truck Or decided He wanted to fuck My truck up because he didnt have one and always wanted one ??? Or maby He just thought I wa too ignorant to know the difference and so He would be able to charge Me till I was broke .He shoulda done His reserch before He decided to breac the bushing .then He would have known they dont sell the replacement arms for My truck .Im just so disapointed because the truck has this kinda unique torsion bar spring setup and I will have to swap it all out because no new parts are offered for that year .\
So anywhay i goes out to the shop and I say to the guy WTF!!?? What are You hammering on and the guy tells Me didn the guy inside tell You .and Im looking around to find what Hes been hammering on ?? and He's waving His arms around and not really pointing at anything .And so I say did You find the specs on the seat and How is it ? and He says that the specs are already prrogrammed into the machine and Mine arnt in there and He cant program Mine in so it wont work and so I asked Him again WTF were you hammering on?? them .and He sais I was doing the alignment . (Im like then WTF!!? and Im red and angry and I want to kill this ashole and I tell him in the calmest voice I can to get My truck on the ground now !!! and so He says I gotta go pay first .or they gonna call the cops .Well I paid and Ive been looking and I still havent found the part that was 5 years ago and the shattered bushing is slowly getting to the point that Im seeing a slight wear in My inner tire tred If You look at the truck from the front the tires kinda look like / \ when they should be more \ /Im just glad He didnt hammer On the steering gear .

[84broncoII]

I did take the same truck in to have an alignment done one other time about 6 year earler .that guy said the whole thing lokked new and wa svery tight for the year but said to do it right I should get some tie rod ends and for him to do the work it was about 5 or 6 hundred I said nevermind and payed the 69 bucks then and drove the thing for another 4 yrs before changing the ends .I grease it all often and turn the front wheels from side to side and work the grease in really good that is how I found the bad tie rod ends 4 years after the tech told Me they were bad LOL .

[ford_munky_man]

Haha, wow sounds like you have had some troubles in your history, LOL! I would shit a brick if he were doing that to my truck. I wouldn't of held back I woulda socked him right in his mouth. And oh boy if it were my dad he woulda laid him out before the guy could even blink. But any way that is a shitty deal, and Hyp, from what I read it sounded like you had your own sight and what not, but sorry for the mistake. :thumbsup: But I will have to see if they have the specs for my truck on the alignment machine at our school. We just got a brand new one, well used, but new to us. It is pretty nice. I wonder if it will work.

[ford_munky_man]

I was thining. For the front driveshaft, if I got a double cardon joint for the front of the shaft that attaches to the diff and put a Super-Flex in there between the shaft and the t-case, would that be the best way to go. Cause the SF will give me the extra flex in the shaft and then the DC up front of it will make it less of an angle for the diff.

[Hypoid]

I'd have told him to call the cops. He just admited his machine could not perform the contracted services.

[ford_munky_man]

Ya, that is a very good point!

[84broncoII]

I called the cops .and gave them the story and they told Me there was nothing that they could do .They arnt mechanics after all and have no opinion they could show up but i6t would be wrote up as a dispute between a owner and a customer .I would have to take him to court and sue Him for 69 bucks and at the tim it just wasnt worth it .I did take another shop to court once they dropped My truck off of the lift and dented the whole side of My truck .I got 600.00 for that one .I had to run around though and get estimates and there were some shops that when I got there and told them what happened they wouldnt give Me and estimate to sue one of thier own .I think I went to 7 shops to get 3 estimates then I had to take two days off of work to go to court becose they didnt infome me that they couldnt make the first date then it took about 6 months for the owner to pay Me and I had to go to his bank to get a draft from him .All in all i might have made more on the deal if I had just gone to work and forgot about the whole thing .

[ford_munky_man]

Sounds like it a bad deal anyway. I was just noticing you are close to colfax. Do you know anybody down there from the rigs? My future dad-in-law works down there, maybe you know him?

[84broncoII]

I keep to Myself for the most part i really dont know anybody I often feel very alone LOL

[ford_munky_man]

Haha I see, thats not the best you knoe people go crazy that way! :o Just a heads up, lol jk. My mom is dating a guy from Aurora, Brian something. He is up here a lot though when he not working I think.

[Hypoid]

How often do these people go back to Worland? Do they drive something big enough to toss an axle or two in back??? LOL From what I understand, Wyoming has it's own, seperate economy for used part$$$.

[ford_munky_man]

Lol, I think he is here like every other week or everyother two weeks, not quite sure. But he drives a 90's era F-150, it has a camper shell on it too, but not sure how much stuff he has back there. So given that he has nothing to minimal stuff back there I am pretty sure it is big enough to toss a couple in the back. Is ours better than yours down there? What are you needing?

[Hypoid]

Is ours better than yours down there? What are you needing?

I was thinking the other way around: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=979943

[ford_munky_man]

Boy do we have some fucking retards! And no lie about the crack, it is probably true about half of WY, can't wait till I am out! But what about the whole axle deal? Are you needing some, or saying there is some for me? Cause I pretty sure he can drop off somewhere or pick stuff up.